The Present
Life
Village elders keep traditional tofu-making alive
By Class2group1term125, The Present
10 minute read - Published 6:46 PM GMT+7, December 10, 2024
Having made tofu for nearly 40 years, an elderly couple has successfully preserved its authentic flavor using traditional methods that no modern techniques can replicate.
Mrs. Truong in 30-year-old kitchen, making tofu (Photo by The Present)
Tofu has long been an indispensable dish in Vietnamese family meals, reflecting the uniqueness of the country's culinary culture. Over time, this dish has gradually been innovated in production methods, from making tofu manually to using modern machinery. However, the traditional method of making tofu has persisted over the years and preserved the ancient beauty and quintessence of valuable culture.
Traditional handmade tofu
Visiting Mr. Truong’s home in Yen Binh Village, Duong Xa Commune (Gia Lam, Hanoi) renowned for its traditional tofu-making craft, we had the chance to witness him and his wife diligently making tofu by hand in the old kitchen. For over 30 years, they have maintained their conventional craft, using unique trade secrets. Every tofu block they produce is famous for its special delicious flavor and the heartfelt dedication that they put into it.
Every morning, Mr and Mrs Truong wake up at 4:30 to prepare for the first steps: grinding, filtering, and boiling soy milk over a large stove.
The process of grinding soybeans (right) and manually squeezing the soybean pulp (left). (Photo by The Present)
What is remarkable is that Mr. and Mrs. Truong still preserve the traditional wood stove, which enhances the flavor of the tofu compared to using an electric stove. They use rustic natural materials such as dry firewood or dried pomelo peels as fuel. Mrs Truong shared: “Using pomelo peels is both cost-effective and makes the fire catches quickly and burn steadily. We don’t use coal because it emits odors and poses health risks.”
Pomelo peels are dried (Photo by the Present)
Unlike mechanised tofu factories, Mrs. Truong personally skims off the thick foam that rises to the surface of the boiling soy milk. This valuable experience ensures her soy milk is free from impurities or dust that might otherwise fall into the pot from the smoke.
The stage of skimming off the thick foam that rises to the surface of the boiling soil milk (Photo by The Present)
The use of acidic soy whey (sour water), a natural coagulant that makes soy milk precipitate is another secret. Instead of artificial additives, she relies on fermented soy milk from previous batches, which lends her tofu its characteristic texture and rich, authentic flavor.
Mrs. Truong carefully poured each ladle of sour water into the pot of soybean (Photo by The Present)
Once the soy milk precipitates into “cai dau”, Mrs. Truong uses a long wooden mold, carefully lining it with thin gauze fabric. This wooden mold, crafted by her husband, has been her trusted companion since her very first batches of tofu. She then ladles the curd into the mold, pressing it down firmly by hand to ensure none spills over. Finally, she places a heavy stone on top to squeeze out excess liquid.
Manual soybean pressing process using wooden molds (Photo by The Present)
Tofu-making from Modern Machinery
As technology advances, tofu production facilities increasingly adopt automated and modern machinery. From grinding soybeans to boiling and pressing, machines significantly save time and reduce the labour required compared to traditional methods.
During the grinding process, industrial grinders efficiently separate the soy pulp from the soy milk. Depending on the settings, the beans can be ground to the desired texture with minimal effort.
The next step involves boiling the soy milk in specialized industrial steam kettles. Continuous steam injection prevents the soy milk from settling and burning at the bottom, unlike manual methods. Additionally, these kettles feature temperature control panels, allowing workers to regulate heat more easily and with less effort.
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After being crushed, soybeans will be separated into pulp and soybean milk (Photo by Alibaba)
Industrial steam kettle used in boiling soy milk (Photo by Cokhiviendong)
Once the soy milk boils, producers use additives like gypsum or nigari to coagulate the tofu, rather than the fermented soy milk used in traditional methods.
Gypsum is used in making tofu (Photo by VietnamNet)
For pressing, modern facilities scoop the curd into molds and use a foot pedal to lower a pressing plate, compacting the tofu efficiently. Compared to traditional methods, mechanical pressing requires much less physical strength and results in uniformly shaped tofu blocks.
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Tofu is pressed by the foot pedal (Photo by ABC food)
Cultural significance of the traditional tofu-making craft
Traditional tofu-making is not merely a means of livelihood but an art form passed down through generations. Mrs. Truong explained, “Making tofu requires heart and dedication.” Watching her mold perfectly shaped tofu blocks, we could sense her deep respect and love for the craft. Despite its physically demanding nature, she finds joy in chatting with regular customers and cherishes the connection it brings to her peaceful village life.opt automated and modern machinery. From grinding soybeans to boiling and pressing, machines significantly save time and reduce the labour required compared to traditional methods.
Mrs. Truong, smile happily when the tofu are sold out (Photo by The Present)
While traditional and modern production methods each have their unique strengths, every handmade tofu block from Mr. and Mrs. Truong’s home carries not only the flavors of history but also a story of passion, dedication, and love for their craft. It serves as a vivid testament to the enduring cultural heritage of Vietnam’s traditional villages, a legacy that technology cannot easily replace.
Mrs. Truong pours the soybean milk into the pot to boil over the charcoal stove (Photo by The Present)
Mr. and Mrs. Truong support each other in making batches of tofu (Photo by The Present)
Gia Lam is a district located on the suburb of Hanoi. This place is famous for its various traditional craft, which make contribution to its economic and cultural development. Besides some conventional crafts like making tofu, Gia Lam still remain others such as gilding craft, making pottery,... which attracts many visitors annually.